All Chef Ought to Study At This Spot’: Modest Turkish Eatery Secures Fourth on Roll of London’s Best Dining Destinations.

Whenever assembling a list of London’s best eateries, one might foresee renowned award-winning venues. However, situated prominently among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

An Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. The honour has left the family totally astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” states a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest place securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary achievement.